The Day I Became ‘World Famous’

Jiuzhaigou National Park

NOTE FROM JONAH: Before I begin this tale, for those not from New York or New England — please re-read the headline above in your most sarcastic inner monologue.

In front of me was a perfectly still and prestine alpine lake. There was no trash floating in the water, the sky was clear of pollution and I couldn’t hear a single car honking its horn. This was not your average Chinese landscape.

Then, when the Chinese man in the tight suit said “Jonah Mathew Kessel” I walked forward on a red carpet in front of the amazing landscape. As I walked forward one of the theme songs to Star Wars began to echo across the alpine lake behind me. Trying to keep my composure and not laugh at the choice of music used for my introduction, I gave an unrehearsed speech describing the beauty of Jiuzhaigou National Park, found in Sichuan Province on the Tibetan Plateau.

Behind me was a circa 10 meter red banner that read “World Famous Photographers Focusing On The Fairyland — Jiuzhaigou.”

Jonah Giving Speech

I introduced myself in Chinese and quickly switched to English in my speech to a large Chinese crowd of nature lovers and photographers. As I spoke in English a translator would repeat after me, giving me time to look around and reflect upon the situation. I gave one of the most generic thank you speeches anyone has ever given and then watched as a flood of cameras and cell phones snapped photos of me shaking hands with the man in the suit.

As hundreds of people took the same picture of me, I looked at the sign again. It read “World Famous Photographers … “. While I didn’t know it when I woke up, this would be the day, someone decided myself and 11 other colleagues were “World Famous.” (Again, if you aren’t from New York or New England, please re-read the last sentence using your sarcastic voice).

It was one of the stranger moments of my three years in China … But let me rewind and help explain how and why I got to this stunning place.

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

Two Months Earlier

Two months earlier an art gallery called and asked if I would be interested in going to photograph Jiuzhaigou National Park. They said I could stay for as little as three days or longer if I wanted and it would be like a “paid vacation.” For going to the park, saying a one-minute speech, and giving them 20 photographs — they would give me 10,000 RMB ($1500) and cover all of my expenses.

The circumstances were a bit fishy but I decided to give it a go. I agreed to their terms and hung up the phone. Minutes later they called back and asked “By the way, do you know any other foreign photographers in China?”

If you throw a rock at a foreigner in Beijing, you are most likely going to hit either (a) an English teacher or (b) a photographer. Having thrown many rocks at foreigners in Beijing, I happen to know a lot of photographers (and a lot of pissed off English teachers). I asked them why and they told me they needed many foreign photographers to go. I asked how many they were looking for, and the woman replied — about 12 or 15.

And this is when I realized, I had just signed up for my first “white guy job.” If you are unfamiliar with this term — in China, some foreigners get jobs, simply because they are foreign, not really from any merit, skill or ability. Also important to note, “white” in this sense refers to anyone, not from China.

My friend Mitch Moxley is actually writing a book about this right now. His book, tentatively titled “Tall Rice” details some of the funny jobs you can get in China, just by being foreign. Mitch uses these experiences to talk about greater topics from China.

Journalist Mitch Moxley’s TALL RICE: The High and Low Adventures of a Foreigner in China, inspired by the article “Rent a White Guy” in The Atlantic, chronicles Moxley’s outrageous adventures in Beijing, from fake businessman to Chinese propagandist to low-budget music video star, a young man’s search for identity in the most unexpected of places, to Katie Salisbury at Harper Perennial, by Stephanie Sun at Weed Literary (World English).

Based upon some of Mitch’s earlier writings on the topic we can definitely expect a fun read from this one due out in the summer of 2013. Check out some hilarious experts already published by the Atlantic Monthly here:

While I had heard a lot of tales from Mitch and others about jobs like this, I had yet to really take part.

Foreign Photographers

Although this was a bit of a “white guy job” — it was certainly a “white photographer guy job.” I called some friends and got a few signed up to either (a) endure or (b) enjoy the trip with me, pending on how it would go. Amongst photographers who joined me were the immensely talented Chi Yin Sim, Peter Carney, Jeff Lau, Keith Bedford and Jasper James.

While some of our foreign group were indeed photographers, a couple others slipped in — including some architects and some Italians who seemed to be more interested in smoking cigarettes than taking pictures.

Miss Jiuzhaogou 2012

The group was carted around for a couple days attending some very stereotypical Chinese events including an enormous banquet featuring traditional song and dance accompanied by a fog machine, bubble machine, snow machine, laser light show and a completely out of place psychedelic backdrop.

Our group was also given front row seats to the 2011 Miss Jiuzhaigou Finals. Hundreds of others crammed in behind us to get a look. But hey — we were now world famous. World famous photographers only sit in the front. The competition was hot, but in the end contestant number 9 took this years crown, although I was really rooting for number 6.

And just to put your mind a rest, in case you were wondering — in a Tibetan beauty pageant, there is no swimsuit contest.

Following these exciting events, we heard countless speeches by low level officials from … well, I’m not exactly sure where they were from.

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

Back at The Gorgeous Lake

Back at the gorgeous lake I was not the only one who had become “world famous” — the architect, the businessman, the smoking Italians and my five photographer friends were also now “world famous.”

When the ceremony was finished the large crowd dispersed. The group of world famous photographers would then spend three days photographing this amazing spot. Throughout these days, people who had seen the ceremony would continually stop me asking to take my picture or to talk to me. This was a strange juxtoposition.

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

On one hand, I was photographing an amazing place. There was countless half frozen waterfalls, amazing walking paths surrounded by fields of moving water and clear lakes everywhere.

In a place like this, I think its actually hard to take bad pictures. And while the scenerio was beautiful, on the other hand, I felt a bit foolish being there. Knowing that it wasn’t the quality of my pictures that mattered, but the color of my skin that was important.

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

A beautiful picture by a Chinese photographer, would not have been wanted. While China is certainly booming in some areas, in other areas there still seems to be so much value put on image — that all logic is forgotten.

While this did bother me, the place itself is simply fantastic. This I suppose, is the dichotomy of the “white photographer guy” job.

For more information and photography from Jiuzhaigou National Park — see last week’s post here.

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

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Read more.. Thursday, January 19th, 2012

Not Your Average Chinese Landscape

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

Mind-boggling. Exciting. Funny. Diverse. Contradictory.

There are so many words one can use to describe China. But one word I would not necessarily use is beautiful. While China is often stunning, it is rarely stunningly beautiful.

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

In my three years in China, I’ve traveled to about 25 provinces. And after going to all of these place, very rarely would the word beautiful come to mind when describing them. Sometimes I end up in beautiful villages, however they are usually extremely poor and trash is almost inevitably scattered across the landscape. And when you do see stunningly beautiful areas in China, you are usually surrounded by 20,000 of your closest comrades.

Interesting, exciting, funny, diverse — sure. But beautiful — not necessarily.

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

However, last week I had the opportunity of visiting Jiuzhaigou National Park on the TIbetan Plateau in Northern Sichuan. And after three years in China, this marked the first time for me that I found a place — stunningly beautiful. Although I was not alone, compared to visiting the Forbidden City, this place was like visiting a ghost town. While in the summer, crowds soar here, in the winter it feels much more like the Sierra Nevada than China.

The national park, which is indeed a famous tourist attractions in China, is also an UNESCO World Heritage Area. UNESCO describes the area as:

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

Stretching over 72,000 ha in the northern part of Sichuan Province, the jagged Jiuzhaigou valley reaches a height of more than 4,800 m, thus comprising a series of diverse forest ecosystems. Its superb landscapes are particularly interesting for their series of narrow conic karst land forms and spectacular waterfalls. Some 140 bird species also inhabit the valley, as well as a number of endangered plant and animal species, including the giant panda and the Sichuan takin.

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

Although the park does get crammed full of tourists in the summer and fall, during winter — for the most part this place was extremely empty for Chinese standards.

The road through the park gives very good access to countless waterfalls and lakes. The fauna and landscape are perhaps the only place I’ve been in the world that reminded me of Yosemite National Park. I’m not sure if the rock climbing crowd has truly explored this area, but even from the road, it looks like there is an endless amount of untouched surfaces to climb.

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

For me this was a great change of pace and it reminded me — there are still pristine areas left in China not completely over run by tourism, pollution or enormous sky scrappers. The facilities that were there, were actually very nice. There were a few resorts scattered around the park and within the park hundreds of kilometers of walking trails — many of which are on very cool wooden paths surrounded by waterfalls on all sides.

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

Photographically, getting to this park in the winter was truly a treat. Waterfalls, ice and gray skies make some longer exposures during day time hours pretty easy. At f/32, ISO 50 I could get a lot of exposures up to 1.5 seconds and create some nice motion blut. If I were to go back, I would surely bring an ND filter. I saw a couple Chinese photographers with ND filters shooting 30 second+ exposures, which I would love to see how they turned out.

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

Beyond long exposure waterfall photography the color of the park is very cool. The alpine lakes remind me of those I had seen in New Zealand and in volcanic areas in Hawai’i. Unique minerals in the area create some amazing colors in the water. Combined with some stunning visibility, the colorful lakes contrast very nicely against the white snow and green trees.

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

According to Wikipedia:

Seven of the nine Tibetan villages are still populated today. The main agglomerations that are readily accessible to tourists are Heye, Shuzheng and Zechawa along the main paths that cater to tourists, selling various handicrafts, souvenirs and snacks. There is also Rexi in the smaller Zaru Valley and behind Heye village are Jianpan, Panya and Yana villages. Guodu and Hejiao villages are no longer populated.

While we did visit some of the villages, like many Tibetan things I’ve seen, the areas seemed a bit fake and people were scarce. However, our guide told us we could rest assured “The Tibetan people here are both very happy and rich.” Sadly, the current series of self-immolation monks is just around the corner from this area … The propagandized statement was just one of many our guide would make.

Oh yes … my guide. The circumstances in which I was being guided around this place is a story in itself.

And while the story itself is not nearly as beautiful as the park, it is a pretty entertaining and includes me walking down a red carpet to the music from Star Wars.

Ill tell that tale next …

Juizhaigou National Park - Sichuan Province

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Read more.. Saturday, January 14th, 2012

After the Himalayan: The Terai

Terai Baby



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Note from Jonah: This is the continuation of a photo series from the Great Himalayan Mountain Range. The photos document a journey by car, foot, boat, plane and elephant from Tibet to Nepal.

“There are no foreign lands. It is the traveler only who is foreign.”Robert Louis Stevenson

As you drop down thousands of meters from the world’s roof top in the Himalayan, the geographic climate and culture changes rapidly. While the Himalayan alpine zone doesn’t support much growth, it does supply what’s beneath it with a great deal of water and snow melt.

Wetlands Lizard

From the highest point of the Himalayan at 28,000 feet to Nepals lowest point at sea level, its similar to changing planets (well, at least countries). While the northern ridge of the country reflects the Tibetan culture, the southern flatlands reflect more of an Indian flavor. The wetlands at the foothill of the Himalaya support a completely different ecosystem and wildlife. As you drive lower and lower, the water from the Himalayan follows you, snaking through the landscape.

Himalayan Water Way

Nepal’s southern border with India is known as the Terai (Hindi: तराई, Nepali: तराई, Urdu: ترائی, translation: “moist land” or “foothill” [originally from Persian]). Within one day of being at Mount Everest, you potentially could be in Nepal’s wetlands which border India. This strip of marshy grasslands covers parts of India, Nepal and Bhutan. The variation in visual geography is stunning and is matched by the diversity in culture found in the Terai.

Wetlands

Although I’ve yet to voyage to India, these wetlands and grasslands reminded me more of a stereotypical view of Africa more than India. However, this showed me my vision of India was inaccurate and it was I who was foreign, certainly not the land.

Nepal Terai

Farmers riding a tractor

As I drove south nearing the border of India, clay houses turned into straw huts, yaks turned to elephants and layers of clothing stripped off as temperatures and humidity skyrocketed. I was on my way to Chitwan Royal National Park, famous in Asia for its biodiversity and wildlife population. After some rough accommodation in the Himalayan and the dirtiness of Katmandu, arriving on the shores of the park was like getting to a tropical island paradise.

Sunset at the shores of Chitwan National Park

I arrived at the shores of the park just in time for the sun setting over the marshlands. This really made me feel like I was someplace far away from where I had been two days earlier.

If you look at the picture directly above you’ll notice black dots or specs everywhere (might be hard to see at 650px wide, click on it to enlarge to 1000px). These are actually bats at dinner time in Chitwan National Park. Almost like a painted through a paint brush at the landscape, this was my first sign of tremendous wildlife in the park.

Chitwan Sunset

Next post picks up inside the park with some crocs, elephants, rhinos, deers and certainly the tallest grass I’ve ever seen.

Road Trip on the Himalayan Shelf: If you’re just joining now, here’s what you’ve missed:

  1. Road trip on the Himalayan Shelf
  2. Lhasa: City of Sunlight, City in the Sky
  3. In Tibet, People’s Liberation Army (mostly) out of site, but not out of mind
  4. Attn: Crayola — a new color for you — Tibetan Blue
  5. Tibetan Cloudscapes
  6. Tibetan Prayer Flags Littering Roof of the World
  7. Should you pay for photos? The ethics of travel photography
  8. 29 Minutes and 15 Seconds on Mount Everest
  9. Desertification stretching from Inner Mongolia to Tibet
  10. ‘The journey not the arrival matters’
  11. Namaste and welcome to Nepal
  12. Kathmandu: The greatest place on earth to get lost
  13. Kathmandu: Full of mystery, culture, history — and trash
  14. ‘A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles’
  15. Who has the strongest necks in the world?
  16. Hey hey, they’re some monkeys
  17. After the Himalayan: The Terai
  18. Watch where you step: Chitwan National Park
  19. At the end of the road: Pokhara
  20. Final Destination 8 (in 3D): The luckiest travelers in the world
  21. Tibet to Nepal: ‘The Journey Not the Arrival Matters’
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Read more.. Saturday, November 6th, 2010

Tibetan Cloudscapes

Tibetan Cloudscape



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Note from Jonah: This is the continuation of a photo series from the Great Himalayan Mountain Range. The photos document a journey by car, foot, boat, plane and elephant from Tibet to Nepal. If you’re just joining now, here’s what you’ve missed:

  1. Road trip on the Himalayan Shelf
  2. Lhasa: City of Sunlight, City in the Sky
  3. In Tibet, People’s Liberation Army (mostly) out of site, but not out of mind
  4. Attn: Crayola — a new color for you — Tibetan Blue
  5. Tibetan Cloudscapes
  6. Tibetan Prayer Flags Littering Roof of the World
  7. Should you pay for photos? The ethics of travel photography
  8. 29 Minutes and 15 Seconds on Mount Everest
  9. Desertification stretching from Inner Mongolia to Tibet
  10. ‘The journey not the arrival matters’
  11. Namaste and welcome to Nepal
  12. Kathmandu: The greatest place on earth to get lost
  13. Kathmandu: Full of mystery, culture, history — and trash
  14. ‘A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles’
  15. Who has the strongest necks in the world?
  16. Hey hey, they’re some monkeys
  17. After the Himalayan: The Terai
  18. Watch where you step: Chitwan National Park
  19. At the end of the road: Pokhara
  20. Final Destination 8 (in 3D): The luckiest travelers in the world
  21. Tibet to Nepal: ‘The Journey Not the Arrival Matters’

In the last post on Crayola’s new color, Tibetan Blue, I mentioned the unusual clouds on the Tibetan Plateau. In part, this was due to my timing of the trip. August is still part of the monsoon (rainy) season in the Himalaya and in many ways, its a stupid time to visit. On the other hand, you avoid lots of tourists and get to see fast moving menacing clouds.

Road to Mount Everest

Another advantage to visiting in the summer, is your ability to see what is normal buried in snow. In the high Himalayan, and regions around Mount Everest, the Tibetan landscape is extremely arid. Barely any growth is found on the ground, mountains and even by lakes. The undulating ground, combined with the strange cloud formations makes some landscapes look Martian.

Arid Tibet

The three photos above were all taken on an access road to Mount Everest … and by road, I mean there were parts which resembled something similar to an old gravel road, other parts feel like you are driving on the moon. The drive is a very bumpy 4 hours from the access point on the Friendship Highway to Rongphu Monastery, the world’s highest Buddhist Temple where you can begin the hike to Everest Base Camp.

Rain ahead

Throughout this trip, it rained everyday for at least some period. However, when in the Himalayan, the mountains usually created small microclimates where it would be raining continually in some areas and not at all in others.

Martian Cloudscape

Other times, you could see rain clouds move around like cartoons across an enormous valley. This made for some very interesting landscapes (also some very uninteresting landscapes that you won’t see here). Since these are all centered around clouds, I dub these type of photos “cloudscapes.”

Rain

The last post in this series is a photo essay all shown from the backseat (driver side) of different modes of transportation. You’ll see a lot of these cloudscapes there as well. The Tibet portion of this journey was made by car. If you notice in the pictures above, there are some fairly concrete rain clouds on the horizons. You might ask, what happens when you get there?

Karola Pass

There are very few roads in Tibet, so you don’t have too many choices about how to get places. The nature of the landscape means mountain passes can go up far past 20,000 feet in elevation and it is inevitable you’ll be in the clouds. One of my favorite moments in this process is the point where you are half in the cloud and half out.

Cloud

The shots above shows the view coming into Karola Pass at 15,700 feet, which climbs between two massive mountains, Nozing Khangsa 23,700 feet and Ralung 20,460 feet. The clouds hold there place well enough that its almost like walking through an enormous curtain on rigged to a mountain.

Yamdrok Lake

Check back next week, for images from Mount Everest and a collection of prayer flag photos.

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Read more.. Wednesday, September 22nd, 2010

Attn: Crayola — a new color for you — Tibetan Blue

Mount Everest Cloudscape



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Note from Jonah: This is the continuation of a photo series from the Great Himalayan Mountain Range. The photos document a journey by car, foot, boat, plane and elephant from Tibet to Nepal. If you’re just joining now, here’s what you’ve missed:

  1. Road trip on the Himalayan Shelf
  2. Lhasa: City of Sunlight, City in the Sky
  3. In Tibet, People’s Liberation Army (mostly) out of site, but not out of mind
  4. Attn: Crayola — a new color for you — Tibetan Blue
  5. Tibetan Cloudscapes
  6. Tibetan Prayer Flags Littering Roof of the World
  7. Should you pay for photos? The ethics of travel photography
  8. 29 Minutes and 15 Seconds on Mount Everest
  9. Desertification stretching from Inner Mongolia to Tibet
  10. ‘The journey not the arrival matters’
  11. Namaste and welcome to Nepal
  12. Kathmandu: The greatest place on earth to get lost
  13. Kathmandu: Full of mystery, culture, history — and trash
  14. ‘A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles’
  15. Who has the strongest necks in the world?
  16. Hey hey, they’re some monkeys
  17. After the Himalayan: The Terai
  18. Watch where you step: Chitwan National Park
  19. At the end of the road: Pokhara
  20. Final Destination 8 (in 3D): The luckiest travelers in the world
  21. Tibet to Nepal: ‘The Journey Not the Arrival Matters’

Living in Beijing, whenever I go anywhere I’m always struck by how blue the sky actually is. However, on the Tibetan Plateau — the sky actually looks different. If New Zealand is known as Aotearoa — land of the long white cloud, Tibet should be known as land in the big blue sky.

Driving around in this environment is truly fantastic. Seemingly endless roads, with soaring peaks into an endless blue sky. The sprawling valleys and peaks usually make the sky visible someplace at all times — even if its raining where you happen to be.

Blue backed Chinese Flag

The Tibetan sky simply looks more blue. However, its so much more blue, it appears to be a different color altogether. With an average height of 4,900 meters (16,000 feet) the air quality and visibility on the Tibetan Plateau create a saturation in the sky that is something truly unique on a global scale.

Although my photographs are circumstantial to my specific timing of the trip, when looking at a color profile of the sky on an 8-bit JPEG, color distribution of the sky comes out around 0R + 30B + 90G, while in this photo of the China Pavilion in Shanghai the sky’s color profile comes in at 95R + 120G + 170B — a much more neutral color.

If your unfamiliar with the RGB color space, pure black is 0R+0G+0B, while a middle gray falls at 127R+127G+127B and pure white as 255R+255G+255B. The color profile above indicates a much darker or richer blue, compared to one whose RGB values were more similar.

Tibetan Photo Stitch

I’ve alerted Crayola and the United Nation’s Ministry of Color, we have a new color on our hands — Tibetan Blue. New crayons should be printed by spring 2011.

Photographically speaking this was strange to me. Looking through my view finder it looked like someone had taken the photo in Photoshop and cranked the vibrance and saturation sliders. Even on camera, the sky in the images simply looked fake. Often in bright situations, I under expose photos to help take down the high spectrum of the light meter — and this also increases saturation, creating some vibrant landscapes.

Blue Contrast

The colorful outfits of the Tibetans, as well as the arid dry landscape creates some amazing contrast with this deep blue color. A red Chinese flag, a rocky desert or a market in Lhasa, the color contrast is remarkable.

Tibetan Blue

Clouds also seem to appear differently on the Tibet Plateau. I might compare it to being in a plane or helicopter when you are at the same elevation as the clouds. When you look over at a cloud instead of up at it, you get a much different perspective. Low lying clouds and fog give mountains and landscapes a different perspective in terms of size. They also created distinct shadows and if there is enough light, some nice contrast.

Later this week, check out another post on “Tibetan Cloudscapes.”

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Read more.. Monday, September 20th, 2010