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NOTE FROM JONAH: This is the continuation of a photo series from India. If you’re just joining us, here’s what you’ve missed:

1. I’m not alone here
2. People ‘like’ my diarrhea
3. Dancing In(dia) the Streets
4. Indian trains: Contemptibly cozy, crammed and claustrophobic
5. Feeding a City Part II: From Macro to Micro
6. Confusing realities of child labor
7. Enlightined in Bodh Gaya बोधगया
8. Kathmandu — You’ve met your match: Varanasi वाराणसी
9. Varanasi वाराणसी: Full Photographic Spectrum

Along the banks of the Ganges sits ancient Varanasi. While the focus of the city is certainly on the river, the city is connected by an intricate system of alleys small enough to make Beijing’s hutongs look like highways.

The city structure reminded me a little bit of the UNESCO World Heritage area Casbah in old city of Algiers, Algeria. However, the enormous Indian population makes these alleys seem even smaller.

The alleys don’t form a grid. Dead ends seem plentiful. And just like in Kathmandu, temples, residences and commerce are all found in the same place — often in the same structure.

Photographically this place is pretty amazing. Pilgrims come to the holy waters, wander the ancient alleys and pray at some of India’s oldest temples. Some of the world’s most colorful brides (and some of the most obviously unhappy brides) come to Varanasi to fulfil their prearranged marriage.

Poverty in Varanasi is rampant. With poverty always comes interesting faces. With these interesting faces also comes some pretty big annoyances and dangers.

Its hard to walk 10 feet along the Ghats without running into a beggar. They come in all forms: from mothers to children, infants to old man. People are lined up looking for handouts from foreigners and Indian tourists.

This has been a problem throughout India for me. Everywhere I go people (especially children) are asking for money. With the massive Indian populaiton this can become a bit overwhelming. For photographers this can be a bigger problem.

Many people are demanding money for photographs. However, the Indian method of this is to approach you and ask if you will photograph them, followed by demanding money. People certianly approach you in friendly ways, however 90% of them are looking for money.

Beyond the beggars, Varanasi also seems to be full of various scam artists. “From which country do you come from?” Is the question often asked as you pass by strangers on the street. While the question is innocent in nature, 99% of these people have an agenda. Maybe they want to be your tour guide, maybe they want to coheres you into their shops or maybe they have something else to sell — but inevitably almost all of this friendlyness has a backstory — and usually not one you want to hear.

This puts tourists in an aqward position. People say ‘hi’ to you or ‘from which country do you come from’ and you have the choice to answer them or not. If you ignore them, you don’t have to deal with their scam. However, I feel like I am being rude as a visitor by not entertaining them a little bit. If you do respond, you open the door to having someone follow you around and pester you for long periods of time.

My method and approach to this common Asian occurrence is to respond to them with a little sarcasm. Let them know, you know their scam but chat them up a bit. Normally, when they see you are hip to their plan — they will bugger off. And in the slight chance someone is just being friendly and actually wants to know “from which country do you come from” — perhaps you’ve made a friend.

While I am on an assignment and therefor have a timeline and agenda here in India, I could only spend three days in this city. There seem to be so many hidden jewels of this place and so many interesting cultural happenings — you could spend months here. But this would not be my fate — as I would have to board a 27 hour train ride across the country to the deserts of Rajasthan.